Romantic wine villages along the Mosel

Fancy a hike?

Stroll between picturesque house facades early in the morning: Cheerful sparrows twitter as they hop along the cobblestones. In the old wine villages with the steep undercut slopes on the banks of the Mosel as a backdrop, people have always lived in close proximity to one another. Here, where space is at a premium, people build upwards, which is why you see beautiful half-timbered houses towering above the narrow streets. Small open spaces open up. Those who can, tend small gardens and allow vines to grow up the sides of the walls. The rows of houses line the streets and alleyways which run either parallel along the Mosel or lead directly to the vineyards.

Picturesque architecture purpose-built to enhance the wine-drinking experience

Ansicht auf den Ort Beilstein umgeben von Weinbergen und Blick auf die Mosel.

What we nowadays appreciate as “typically Mosel” is actually purpose-built architecture in an optimised settlement structure. That may sound sober, but its purpose used to be to enhance the wine-drinking experience to the fullest extent. Properties along the Mosel guaranteed members of the nobility and the church from far and wide regular access to the popular Mosel wine. It used to be commonplace that many winegrowing families were serfs and received their farms as a hereditary lease. Needless to say, buildings were constructed based on the ideas and financial means of their landlords. The main focus was functionality, and every now and then you will also notice a fascinating tendency towards self-representation. Even today, illustrious names such as “Echternacher Hof” [Echternach Farm] (imperial abbey of Echternach), “Staffelter Hof” [Staffelter Farm] (imperial abbey of Stablo-Malmedy in Belgian Stavelot), “Springiersbacher Hof” [Springiersbach Farm] (Springiersbach Monastery in Bengel) or “Maximiner Hof” [Maximin Farm] (imperial abbey of St. Maximin in Trier) are reminiscent of the old ownership structure. What is perhaps the oldest half-timbered house along the Mosel originates from 1320/21 and is located in Kobern-Gondorf (Simonis House, Kirchgasse 1). It once belonged to Trier’s St. Marien Monastery. At a distance of around 120 km, that’s quite a journey!
 

Riverbank zone and waterway

As late as the mid-19th century, the Mosel was still the central transport artery through the valley. Ferries, barges and ships served as the most important means of transportation for people, livestock, wine and all sorts of goods. Bridges were a rarity, which is why you can still frequently find old ferry towers.

Historical Mosel views and travel itineraries document what the first Mosel tourists saw on the riverbank from the ship at the time: green meadows that served as pasture for livestock, fruit and nut trees and in their midst towpaths and roads where horses and men pulled the ships against the current. Women did the washing and bleached the laundry on the riverbank.

As picturesque as this riparian strip seemed to passing Mosel tourists, it was equally important as flood protection since the Mosel consistently broke its banks. It has never been channelled or restrained by weirs, which is a good reason for the ground floor of the half-timbered houses being bricked up! Furthermore, it was also where the traditional hallway kitchen with an open fire was situated. Of course, firewalls between the densely built houses were a necessity.
 

Castles and residential towers for the nobility
Ansicht auf die Burg Landshut in Bernkastel-Kues.

The first Mosel guests admired the many castle ruins that sit majestically above the vineyards and still fascinate us today. But the nobility also lived in residential and fortified towers in the middle of the settlements. You can still view the oldest ones in Zell-Merl (at Zandstrasse 70), at Lediger-Lehmen (on the main road) and in Senheim (Vogteihaus = Bailiwick House at Burgstrasse 9). Both of the latter were originally parts of manorial estates that unfortunately are no longer preserved. You will surely discover further medieval residential towers on your Mosel journey.
 

Churches, monasteries and crossroads

Like everywhere in the Christian Occident, the village church forms the centrepiece of every Mosel village. In some places, you can even find several churches. Steep crossroads lead up into the vineyards and to the chapels, from where there are wonderful views. Furthermore, there were monasteries such as the Machern or Stuben monasteries. Treis-Karden even had a “Chorherrenstift” (chapter of canons). Belief was absolutely key in people’s lives.

And what was the situation regarding the Reformation? Almost the entire Mosel region is Roman Catholic. However, there are a few Protestant enclaves: the counties of Veldenz and Sponheim (the area including Veldenz, Mühlheim, Brauneberg, Traben-Trarbach and Winningen).
 

Representative vineyards and villas

Ansicht auf eine Frau mit Hut vor der Villa Huesgen in Traben-Trarbach
© Reiseblog petitchapeau.de

Not all Moselaners were serfs belonging to the church or nobility; rather, there were always free and wealthy citizens along the Mosel. We recommend visiting the baroque villa of Böcking in Traben-Trarbach!

The Industrial Revolution gave the wealthy bourgeoisie a whole new sense of self-confidence, which increasingly manifested itself in the Mosel villages’ architecture in the 19th century. The classic nobility was emulated: Successful men purchased old castle ruins and confidently converted them into their residences (such as the Imperial Castle at Cochem, Arras Castle, and Thurant Castle). Wealthy entrepreneurs, merchants and wine growers were able to afford stately villas and magnificent vineyards with a few small castles thrown into the mix.

Visit the art nouveau buildings in Traben-Trarbach and the renowned vineyards in Bernkastel-Kues!

You will discover much more besides, and maybe you will even stay overnight at the Schloss Lieser luxury castle hotel?

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