Weingut Van Volxem, Wiltingen

A stronghold for wine lovers and architecture enthusiasts


Those who embark on a castle tour in the Mosel wine-growing region are richly rewarded. A medieval fortress presides on near to every other hill. Today, they, or what remains of them, serve as museums, restaurants and popular excursion destinations. Roman Niewodniczanski’s contemporary version of a fortress invites you to a wine tasting experience of the highest calibre.

The new production facility at Weingut Van Volxem is exceptional in the truest sense of the word, and includes a tower visible from afar, a spacious terrace to relax on and a pond surrounded by slate beds and orchards. The owner himself, crowned Winemaker of the Year 2012 and 2018 has, however, long been considered a figurehead within German viticulture.

Roman Niewodniczanski came to the small town of Wiltingen on the Saar in 1999. There he acquired the once resplendent but gradually aging winery, which once belonged to the Belgian beer brewer Gustav Van Volxem. Quite the coincidence as Roman Niewodniczanski is the wine-savvy great grandson of the founder of the Bitburger Brewery. His family still brews beer today as old Van Volxem did in days gone by. The estate included vineyards such as the historic “Sharzhofberg” or “Kupp” – prestigious sites that produced the Saar wines coveted by the rich and powerful around 1900.

The winemaker had an ambitious vision; to return the Saar Riesling to its position as one of the world's finest wines. To achieve this, he renovated the listed estate and acquired numerous prime sites in the area. With his team, headed by manager Dominik Völk, he now cultivates 85 hectares. Around 600,000 bottles are produced each year. 

The latest addition is a stunning manufactory built high above the Saar. Even the name of its location is a fitting one; “Zum Schlossberg” (Castle Hill). The ensemble of buildings with shell limestone façades is indeed reminiscent of a modern fortress; adjacent to an elongated building, a cubic monolith containing the visitor centre rises over the landscape. On the ground floor of this wine experience tower, a vinothek invites visitors to enjoy the views and, of course, to taste the cellar’s treasures.

The room above offers space for wine and culinary events. Panoramic glass panels, spanning over eight metres, offer the opportunity to look out over the landscape and invite plenty of natural light in. Here, guests are able to enjoy views of the Scharzhofberg, one of the most prestigious white wine vineyards in the world.

At the heart of the building ensemble lies the cask cellar, which is well worth seeing. Here, renowned Van Volxem wines mature in large wooden casks according to traditional practice. These casks are made of oak from the family’s own forests in the Eifel. Next door in the rarities cellar, on the other hand, select premium location wines and vintages await their grand appearance in large stainless steel tanks.

Everything is of the highest quality – from refined natural materials and Italian design to sophisticated technology. But the building of castles has, of course, always involved master craftsmanship. And the Van Volxem manufactory is most certainly a stronghold for wine lovers, architecture enthusiasts and all those who aspire to become these.


(© Text: Carmen Sadowski, Journalist)

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