Revere the old, but embrace the new. This is the guiding philosophy at the family-run winery Leo Fuchs, whose Vinothek Pomaria masterfully blends old walls and modern architecture. The historic Mosel winery dates back to the 18th century, but was transformed during a 2005 renovation into an open and inviting vinothek. It has quickly become a beloved meeting point for gourmets and a local treasure.
Since July 2015, Ulrich Fuchs has served as the sole proprietor at the tradition-rich Weingut Leo Fuchs. This represented the fulfillment of a long-held dream by father Bruno and mother Brunhilde, who feared that the family calling for winegrowing (dating back to 1624) might be broken. At risk was a tradition of enjoyment and quality, passion and a love of wine. Ulrich and Bruno Fuchs are proud to offer visitors a view into the cellar and to customize wine tastings to the specific tastes of their guests, to the classic minimalist accompaniment of bread and water.
The wines are clear and linear: bright, aromatic and balanced. With a fine slate minerality and distinctive fruit aromas, such as in the "Vom grauen Schiefer" Riesling. Or "Sinfonie," a soft, creamy cuvée from premium Pinot Blanc grapes. Beyond Riesling, which comprises 76 percent of the family's holdings, in recent years the family has also increasingly cultivated white Pinot varieties, including Chardonnay and Pinot Blanc — atypical for the Mosel, but entirely in character for Weingut Leo Fuchs.
The vinothek in the picturesque town of Pommern (pop: 450) cuts a highly distinctive and individual swath in the midst of the Mosel wine culture. The rooms on the ground floor of the vinothek have been built under strict preservation of the historical building materials such as lime plaster, supports and transoms, with a large table of natural stone in the middle serving as the wine tasting hub. The open spaces in front of the 30-square-meter vinothek have been designed into a terrace and catering room, built using common Mosel Valley materials such as crushed stone and basaltic lava.
It should thus come as no surprise that the vinothek has joined the wines themselves as an award winner, including the "Architecture Prize for Wine" in 2007. "The result is an authentic atmosphere that forgoes trendy attitudes," the jury praised. "The design comes across as stylish and friendly." Those interested in seeing for themselves should visit this lovely parcel of Rheinland-Pfalz. It's a good lesson in how old can meet new, in building designs and in the bottle.
(© text: Deutsches Weininstitut GmbH, Outstanding Vinotheks 2016)
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